全世界坐车日记

小小鸟31

我从横滨出发去东京，不认得路线，问地铁站台的小哥。小哥不太会英文，日语又沟通不畅，急坏了，先拽着我去看公示牌的地图，指手画脚一番;再给我一份地图，用笔画清路线;最后把我送上站台，不断比划方向，直到我不断点头确认“OK”，他才放心，连着鞠了四个躬，回岗位去了。我乍进地铁车厢，吓一跳：时当黄昏，满车厢衣冠肃穆，大家低头看书读报看杂志玩翻盖手机，气氛谨严。后来坐过两次才发现，东京都附近的上班族坐车大多如此，倒不是专门板脸吓唬我。

巴黎的地铁也挺安静，大家低头看书、玩手机。姑娘们多穿黑灰大衣，倒是些北非来的衣着艳丽、首饰花哨的阿姨们爱说话。

巴黎的地铁线路，年龄差距甚大。老的极老，能追溯到20世纪初，车门需要人手动按或拉;站台之间的甬道都像古典式建筑;新的则很新，也快，站台上广告也换得勤。巴黎地铁多卖艺人，我见过有老华人中气十足，唱“一条大河波浪宽，风吹稻花香两岸”的，法国人听不懂歌词，但听调门高亢，还有凑热闹鼓掌的，给硬币也格外积极。

葡萄牙的波尔图有一条看似是轻轨的线路，但换乘路线极诡异，有一站换乘简直是上山下乡的一次短途远足，而且得等24分钟。有经验的诸位一下车就跑到站台旁花田里坐着，晒太阳，喝饮料。所以在葡萄牙，坐轨道交通极易变成彼此关爱暖人心的旅途。里斯本著名的有轨电车线路，即到贝伦塔的那一拨，车行得慢。我去过三次，每次上车，都有老夫妇看我亚洲脸，先问一句“是去贝伦塔的吗”，之后沿途每到一站，便回头关照我们“还有多少多少站”，待我们下车时，老太太老先生一起挥手，笑得如释重负。

我们从葡萄牙南的法罗去度假区的拉各斯。火车站台一位圆肚子大叔，过来跟我们聊。我们换了英语和法语，该大叔摇头，表示只会说葡萄牙语。我们给他看车票，18：30的车，距出发还有近一小时。他点点头，表示晓得了，指手画脚，指挥我们去河滩看暮色。

到18：30，圆肚子大叔过马路一样跳过铁路，朝我们跑来，扯着嗓子喊：“Train!”抢过我们的箱子，拽着就走，一边手舞足蹈，指挥我们跟上。等把我们赶鸭子一样推上火车，他隔着车窗哗啦啦地微笑。

在那列火车上，邻座有位大叔，英语说得脆亮好听，长得像《指环王》电影版里佩彭变老之后的样子。我正在偷猜：他是哪国人呢?大叔掏了个本子，里面有详细的、直尺划成表格的火车时刻表，精确到用不同字体和颜色，标明某一站停多少时间。一会儿说要找东西，打开箱子，我们便望见箱中细软，分门别类，分颜色放得方方正正，仿佛拼积木般好看。邻座的葡萄牙姑娘看得长吁短叹，惊叫连连，最后嚷：“你好有组织性啊!”我问大叔：“您是德国人吧?”大叔点点头。

我在拉斯佩奇到罗马的列车上，见一对老夫妇——老阿姨手持一篮樱桃，老伯伯手持一本嘲笑贝卢斯科尼买春的杂志。那对意大利夫妇只会意大利语，听不懂英语或法语，但特别热情，又爱打手势，终于下车的时候，我已经知道了老阿姨叫弗洛达，而且吃光了她的樱桃;知道老伯伯叫弗朗切斯科，是在都灵工作的菲亚特工程师。我把在威尼斯买的玻璃瓶送了一对给他们，弗洛达在我脸上亲了许多下;回到巴黎，连着三个星期，我都接到弗洛达寄来的火腿和腊肠。

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